On the Rise - or How to Understand Leaveners

What’s the difference between these anyway? Here’s a basic explanation.

Leaveners have been around since the late 1700’s. Using sour milk, for example, in baked goods, would cause a chemical reaction, creating carbon dioxide, or air bubbles, which create “lift” in baked items, yielding a tender crumb and porous texture. Chemical leaveners such as baking soda and baking powder came about in the 1930’s.

Baking soda needs an acid to create a reaction and release gas. Acids can include honey, cocoa, sour cream or molasses. Typically these types of baked goods are classified as quick breads, due to the quick nature of the gases being released by the baking soda. The reaction begins to occur as soon as the baking soda comes in contact with the acid. If too much baking soda is used in a recipe, and it does not completely combine with the acid component, the finished baked good will have a metallic flavor.

Baking powder is comprised of a baking soda base along with a dry acid, such as corn starch. Most baking powders are considered double-acting, which means when they come in contact with liquid the acid is activated, which activates the baking soda. When the batter or dough comes in contact with heat the combination releases the gases.. Since cornstarch is derived from corn, which is a grain, most baking powders are not grain-free. Enter Cream of Tartar.

Cream of tartar is a by-product of winemaking. It is the residue from the sediment created during fermentation, typically found on the sides and bottoms of the barrels. It’s most commonly used as a stabilizer for egg whites, in making meringues, and to keep sugar crystals from binding when making caramelizations. Most commercial baking powders contain corn starch as the acid component. It may be gluten free, but it is not grain free, as corn is a grain. In order to make baking powder with cream of tartar, simply combine 1 part baking soda with 2 parts cream of tartar.

Think of it as a 1:2 ratio. If your recipe calls for a tablespoon of baking powder, for example, you would use 1 teaspoon baking soda and 2 teaspoons cream of tartar. (3 teaspoons makes 1 Tablespoon). if your recipe calls for both baking soda and baking powder, use the ratio for the baking powder, then add the baking soda as needed for the recipe.

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